SEA BASS, RHUBARB & ROSE
My mother once told me I had a way with rhubarb, & I think she might be right. It just seems to want to live its delicate neon best life when it's with me. That is not a helpful start to instruction about how to use this queen of fruits, but it's important for everyone's expectations to be managed. Rhubarb isn't hard to deal with. She is as easy going as she is lovely. But sometimes the colour alters in the cooking & this is emphatically not a problem. Bright pink fruit is a wonderful, springlike novelty but there is much beauty in a deep blush or a burnished brown. Just dive in & see where she leads.
I will try & stop anthropomorphising my fruit now, or at least dial back the personal pronouns. I thank you for your patience. Let's talk practicalities.
Fish & rhubarb go together beautifully. The mild yet utterly distinct flavour of the fruit brings out the simple freshness of the fish & the whole combination just sings 'spring'. But this time, I added rose to the mix.
The reason - really - was one of simple laziness. I had made a rhubarb & rose compote for a dinner party & it was still languishing in my fridge. I had some trout as well, which I fried in a little butter, & was busy making a yogurt sauce with some dill when I wondered what would happen if I brought some pink to the party. Dill already has a slightly floral something so I thought the rose might sit nicely along side it. And reader - it did. The verdant fronds, nestled in thick Greek yogurt & drizzled with some liquid Turkish delight made for the perfect, perfumed partner to the simple trout.
NB. Both syrup & yogurt can be prepared ahead of time. The syrup will at least need time to cool.
Ingredients (serves 2)
2 pieces of sea bass I used fillets but whole fish would work delightfully well. Mackerel or trout would also suit this recipe well.
1 knob of butter, for frying.
2 courgettes, cut into thick strips.
Vegetable oil for frying
4 tbsp Greek yogurt
Dill to taste - I use about 2 stalks worth, plus a little extra to sprinkle on the fish.
Olive oil, salt & pepper to taste
2 sticks rhubarb, cut into pieces about an inch long.
2 tsp rose water
2 tbsp caster sugar
100 ml Water
Method
We'll start with the syrup. It's the only part that really takes any time & can be made days in advance if you fancy it. You'll have plenty left to drape over desserts as well. Pop the rhubarb in a saucepan & cover with water. Add the sugar & bring to the boil. Then turn the heat down and simmer until the rhubarb has softened and the liquid starts to reduce. Pour off excess water. Continue until you have a combined, syrupy concoction. Add the rose water (2 tsp is only a guide; go with your taste buds.) Set aside to cool down. If you're in a hurry, you could use the freezer to speed up this part.
You can also make the yogurt ahead of time. It is as simply as cutting up the dill - either chopping the whole stalk finely or removing the stalk & just using the little fronds & mixing it vigorously into the yogurt. Drizzle in a bit of olive oil as well, & season with salt & pepper.
Now for the courgettes. I like griddle mine but roasted ones would be delicious. Just lie them face down in & oiled griddle pan until they are sizzling & lined. Flip them over. Remove from the heat before they go too soft.
For the sea bass, the less you do the better. To be honest, that's my policy with almost all fish. Pop it skin side down in a hot, buttered frying pan. Give it about 3 minutes & flip the fillet. When the flesh is milky white & the skin is crisp, remove from the heat. I like to sprinkle some dill on it, or even some spring onions.
Now plate it up as prettily as you can be bothered & devour.